Popocatépetl: The Smoking Warrior of Mexico - Legend, Aztec History & 'Don Goyo'
Discover Popocatépetl, North America's most famous active volcano. Explore the legend of the Star-Crossed Lovers, its Aztec name meaning, the unique 'Don Goyo' nickname, and why it remains a constant threat to Mexico City.
Popocatépetl (affectionately known as “El Popo”) is the fiery heart of Mexico. Standing at a massive 5,426 meters (17,802 ft), it is the second-highest peak in the country and one of the most active volcanoes in North America. For the millions of people living in Mexico City and the surrounding valleys, Popocatépetl is a constant, smoking sentinel—a reminder of the earth’s raw power and a deep link to the pre-Hispanic past. From its tragic Nahuatl origins to its modern-day status as a major geological threat, “Popo” is a mountain that defines the identity of central Mexico.
1. The Eternal Watch: The Legend of Popo and Izta
One cannot speak of Popocatépetl without mentioning its companion, the dormant volcano Iztaccíhuatl. Together, they form a legendary landscape that has inspired generations.
Mexico’s Romeo and Juliet
According to Aztec mythology, Popocatépetl was a great warrior, and Iztaccíhuatl was a beautiful princess, the daughter of a powerful king. They fell deeply in love, and before departing for a great war, Popocatépetl promised the king he would return victorious to marry the princess. However, a jealous rival sent word back to Iztaccíhuatl that her warrior had perished in battle. Devastated, the princess died of a broken heart.
When Popocatépetl returned triumphant and found his beloved deceased, he was consumed by grief. He carried her body to the top of the mountains, built two massive mounds, and knelt beside her with a smoking torch to watch over her for eternity. The gods, moved by their devotion, turned them into stone. Iztaccíhuatl became the “Sleeping Woman” (as her silhouette resembles a reclining female figure), and Popocatépetl became the volcano that forever vents smoke—the eternal flame of his undying love.
2. Aztec Heritage: The Smoking Mountain
The name Popocatépetl is derived from the Nahuatl words popōca (it smokes) and tepētl (mountain). This linguistic origin highlights how long the volcano has been active; even hundreds of years ago, the indigenous people recognized its defining characteristic.
Sacred Geography and Rituals
For the Aztecs, volcanoes were not just mountains; they were deities. They believed Popocatépetl was an important sacred site where the god of fire, Xiuhtecutli, resided. Priests climbed high onto its slopes to perform rituals, offering incense and sacrifices to prevent the “world-ending” fires that the volcano was capable of producing.
The First “Industrial” Use
Interestingly, Popocatépetl played a minor but crucial role in the Spanish Conquest. In 1522, during the early years of the occupation, soldiers under Hernán Cortés climbed the volcano (an incredible feat for the time) to collect sulfur from its crater. This sulfur was used to manufacture gunpowder, demonstrating the volcano’s immediate strategic value to the Europeans.
3. “Don Goyo”: The Folklore of the Old Man
While the Aztec legends are globally famous, local communities near the volcano have a more intimate, living mythology. Thousands of residents in villages like Santiago Xalitzintla refer to the mountain as Don Goyo.
The Old Man of the Mountain
The nickname “Goyo” comes from Saint Gregory (San Gregorio). Legend tells of a humble man named Antonio, who while walking on the mountain, encountered an old man. The stranger introduced himself as Gregorio Chino Popocatépetl and claimed to be the “spirit” of the mountain. He said that whenever he was angry or felt disrespected, he would smoke and shake the earth. Today, many locals believe that the volcano’s activity is a reflection of Don Goyo’s mood, and they perform “blessings” (the Tiemperos) to keep the mountain calm.
4. Modern Hazard: Facing the Smoking Giant
Popocatépetl is one of the most dangerous volcanoes in the world, not because its eruptions are uniquely massive, but because of its proximity to human population centers.
The Threat to Mexico City
Located only 70 kilometers (43 miles) southeast of Mexico City, an eruption from Popo could impact over 30 million people. The primary concern isn’t usually lava flows, which rarely travel that far, but ashfall. In recent decades, massive clouds of fine volcanic ash have reached the capital city, grounding flights at the Benito Juárez International Airport, clogging drainage systems, and causing widespread respiratory issues.
CENAPRED and the Traffic Light System
To manage this risk, the Mexican government created CENAPRED (National Center for Prevention of Disasters). They maintain a “Volcanic Alert Traffic Light” system:
- Green: Normalcy.
- Yellow: Alert (increasing activity, steam, and ash).
- Red: Danger (imminent eruption or evacuation). Since its “awakening” in 1994 after a long period of dormancy, the volcano has spent much of its time in the Yellow phase, a state of persistent restlessness that keeps scientists and residents on high alert.
5. Biodiversity: Life on the Edge of Fire
Despite the dangerous environment, the Izta-Popo Zoquiapan National Park is a haven for unique wildlife.
The Volcano Rabbit (Zacatuche)
One of the most elusive and endangered animals in the world lives on the slopes of Popocatépetl: the Volcano Rabbit (Romerolagus diazi), also known as the Teporingo or Zacatuche. This tiny, round-eared rabbit lives only in the high-altitude pine forests and grasslands (known as zacatonal) of the Mexican Trans-Volcanic Belt. It is the second-smallest rabbit in the world and serves as a vital indicator of the health of the volcanic ecosystem.
High-Altitude Forests
The mountain features distinct ecological layers. The lower slopes are covered in Oyamel fir and pine forests. As you climb higher, the trees disappear, giving way to volcanic tundra and eventually barren rock and permafrost. The shifting climate and the volcano’s own heat make this a constantly changing habitat for dozens of bird species and small mammals.
6. UNESCO and Cultural Landmarks
Popocatépetl’s influence extends into the realm of architecture and world heritage. On its slopes, the Spanish built a series of 16th-century monasteries designed to evangelize the indigenous populations living in the shadow of the smoking giant.
The Monasteries on the Slopes
These monasteries, located in the states of Morelos and Puebla, are a UNESCO World Heritage site. They represented a new architectural style that blended European Gothic and Renaissance elements with local indigenous influences. Many of these churches were damaged during the 2017 Puebla earthquake, showcasing how the seismic activity of the volcanic region continues to threaten human history and art.
7. Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can I climb Popocatépetl?
Currently, no. Since the volcano resumed activity in 1994, the Mexican authorities have established a 12-kilometer exclusion zone around the crater. It is illegal and extremely dangerous to approach the summit. However, trekking and climbing remain very popular on the neighboring (and dormant) Iztaccíhuatl.
When was the last major eruption?
Popocatépetl has been in a phase of activity since 1994. There have been many “minor” events involving ash columns reaching 9 kilometers in height and spectacular lava fountains at the crater. The last massive, civilization-altering eruption occurred centuries ago, but the constant activity suggests the volcano is nowhere near going back to sleep.
What should I do if ash falls?
Mexican authorities advise residents to stay indoors, seal windows and doors with damp cloths, and never use water to wash away ash (as it turns into a heavy, cement-like sludge that ruins pipes). Using a mask is essential when venturing outside during an ash event.
Why is there a “Smoke Step” called Don Goyo?
As mentioned earlier, “Don Goyo” is the personified spirit of the mountain. Locals believe he is the guardian of the earth, and his “smoke” is his way of breathing or communicating with the world.
How big is the crater?
Popocatépetl’s crater is approximately 400x600 meters wide and 150 meters deep. Inside this crater, small “lava domes” frequently form and are then destroyed by explosive gas releases, which are the source of the frequent ash clouds. The destruction of these domes is what generates the characteristic “thumping” or “pulsing” sounds that can be heard for miles around the mountain.
What is the “Smoke Step”?
The term “Smoke Step” (or Paso de Humo) is often used by local mountaineers and pilots to describe the recurring nature of the volcano’s plumes. Because of the consistent wind patterns in the region, the smoke often forms a staircase-like trail across the sky, leading toward the southwest or northeast depending on the season. This visual landmark has been used for navigation in central Mexico since time immemorial.
Technical Specifications
| Feature | Data |
|---|---|
| Elevation | 5,426 m (17,802 ft) |
| Native Name | Popocatépetl (Nahuatl: Smoking Mountain) |
| Status | Active Stratovolcano |
| National Park | Izta-Popo Zoquiapan National Park |
| UNESCO Site | Monasteries on the slopes of Popocatépetl |
| Endangered Species | Volcano Rabbit (Teporingo) |
| Proximity to CDMX | ~70 km |
Popocatépetl is more than a mountain; it is a living character in the story of Mexico. It is a symbol of love, a site of ancient worship, and a modern scientific challenge. Whether glowing red at night or draped in its winter snow, the Smoking Mountain remains one of the most awe-inspiring sights on the planet.