Pacaya: The People’s Volcano

Guatemala is the land of volcanoes, but Pacaya holds a special title: the most accessible active volcano. Located just 30 kilometers (19 miles) south of Guatemala City, it is the volcano where many people see flowing lava for the first time in their lives. It is famous not for its height or its danger, but for its hospitality. Here, the boundaries between human and geological worlds blur, creating a place where you can quite literally roast a marshmallow over the heat of the planet’s core.

Standing at 2,552 meters (8,373 feet), Pacaya is significantly lower than its neighbors Fuego or Agua. This lower altitude, combined with a relatively gentle slope, makes it a popular day-trip destination for families and casual hikers. But make no mistake: Pacaya is a complex, powerful system that has been continuously active since 1965.

Geological Setting: A Complex History

Pacaya is not a simple cone; it is a volcanic complex. It sits on the southern rim of the massive Amatitlán Caldera (which holds Lake Amatitlán).

• The Ancestral Pacaya: The volcano we see today is built on the ruins of an older volcano that collapsed about 1,100 years ago. This collapse caused a massive landslide that traveled 25 kilometers to the Pacific coast.
• The McKenney Cone: The currently active vent is named the McKenney Cone (after Dr. Alfredo MacKenney, a Guatemalan physician and volcano enthusiast who has documented the volcano since the 1960s). This cone has been growing since 1961. It is visually dynamic; during periods of high activity, it builds up steep walls of spatter, only to have them collapse or be blown apart by subsequent explosions.

The Marshmallow Tradition

There are few places on Earth where culinary arts meets volcanology, but Pacaya is one of them.

• The Experience: Hiking guides will almost always bring a bag of marshmallows. Upon reaching the lava fields (the Meseta), they find “hot spots”—vents or cracks in the cooling lava crust where intense heat escapes.
• The Technique: You stick your marshmallow on a long stick and hold it over the vent. It doesn’t take long; the heat can exceed 400°C (750°F). Within seconds, the marshmallow is golden brown (or charred black, if you’re not careful). Eating a gooey, sweet treat cooked by a volcano is the ultimate Pacaya souvenir.
• Volcanic Pizza: The concept has evolved. A local entrepreneur, David Garcia, became famous for “Pizza Pacaya.” He bakes pizzas on the hot lava rocks using metal trays and protective gear. It sounds like a gimmick, but it’s a testament to the ingenuity of the locals who have turned the volcano into a livelihood.

The Hike: A Walk Through Scenes

The hike up Pacaya is often described as “easy,” but at altitude, “easy” is relative.

• The Start: The trail typically begins at the visitor center in San Francisco de Sales.
• The Journey: It is a 2.5-kilometer hike gaining regarding 400 meters in elevation. You walk through farmland, lush humid forest, and finally emerge onto the barren, black landscape of recent lava flows.
• Taxi-Horses: The trail is lined with locals offering horses (“Taxi!”) for those who find the incline too steep. It’s a major source of income for the community.
• The View form the Top: You generally cannot climb to the very lip of the McKenney crater due to safety regulations (flying rocks are a real hazard). However, the viewpoint on the plateau offers a stunning panorama. You stand on black rock, looking across the valley at the towering trio of Agua, Fuego, and Acatenango volcanoes.

The Legend of Pizza Pacaya

What started as a crazy experiment has become a global culinary icon.

• The Chef: David Garcia, a local accountant turned chef, saw an opportunity in the 2013 flows. He experimented with cooking times and temperatures on the moving lava.
• The Kitchen: His “kitchen” is wherever the lava flows are that day. He wears military-grade boots to withstand the heat. The “oven” is a cavity naturally formed by cooling rock.
• The Method: He places the pizza on a metal tray and slides it under a hardened lava shelf or directly onto a glowing flow. The temperature is so high (often >500°C) that the pizza cooks in less than 5 minutes, giving the crust a perfect, unique volcanic char. It’s not just a meal; it’s high-stakes performance art.

Life Returns: Flora and Fauna

Despite the constant destruction, life on Pacaya is surprisingly resilient.

• The Cloud Forest: The lower slopes are covered in dense, humid cloud forest. Here, you can find bromeliads, orchids, and massive ferns. This forest is home to armadillos, foxes, and the elusive diverse bird species.
• The “Lava Cactus”: As you ascend, the forest gives way to the “caldera scrub.” One of the first colonizers of the new lava flows is a species of prickly pear cactus. Seeing these green, spiky plants growing directly out of black, sterile rock is a powerful symbol of nature’s recovery.
• The Contrast: The hike takes you from the chirping of birds and the smell of damp earth in the forest to the silence and smell of sulfur on the lava fields. It is a journey between two worlds: the living biological world and the dead geological world.

Myths and Legends: The Devil’s Oven

Local folklore has long associated Pacaya with the supernatural.

• The Devil’s Doorway: In colonial times, the constant rumbling and fire led locals to believe the volcano was a gateway to hell. It was often called El Infernillo (The Little Hell).
• The Guardian: Some indigenous elders believe a spirit guardian protects the mountain. Offerings of flowers and liquor are sometimes left near the trailheads to ensure safe passage. It is a reminder that for many, this is not just a geological formation, but a living entity.

Kawilal Hot Springs: The After-Hike Treat

The same magma chamber that fuels Pacaya’s eruptions also heats the groundwater in the region.

• The Thermal Circuit: Located near Lake Amatitlán, the Kawilal Hot Springs are a popular stop after the hike. The resort uses geothermal water pumped directly from the volcanic aquifer.
• Therapeutic Waters: The water is rich in sulfur and minerals, believed to help with muscle pain and skin conditions. Soaking in a hot pool while looking up at the smoking cone of Pacaya is the perfect way to end the adventure.

The 2010 Eruption: When the City Went Black

Pacaya is usually well-behaved, producing slow-moving lava flows and mild Strombolian bursts. But on May 27, 2010, it threw a temper tantrum.

• The Explosion: A powerful eruption ejected debris and a massive ash column.
• The Impact: The wind blew the ash cloud directly north into Guatemala City. The capital was coated in centimeters of black grit. The La Aurora International Airport had to close for days as workers swept ash from the runways.
• The Tragedy: A reporter, Anibal Archila, was killed by falling debris while reporting live near the volcano. It was a stark reminder that even “friendly” volcanoes are unpredictable wild animals.

The 2021 Lava Flows

In early 2021, Pacaya entered a new phase of high effusive activity.

• The Flows: Massive lava flows poured from a fissure on the flank. These flows traveled slowly but relentlessly for months.
• The Threat: The lava threatened the communities of El Patrocinio and San José el Rodeo. It consumed coffee plantations and avocado farms. Residents watched helplessly as the wall of black rock and fire inched towards their homes.
• The “Slow Motion” Disaster: Unlike the fast pyroclastic flows of Fuego, this was a slow-motion crisis. It allowed for orderly evacuations but prolonged the psychological stress for the locals.

What to Bring Back: Volcanic Souvenirs

Pacaya isn’t just about the memories; you can take a piece of the volcano home (figuratively).

• Lava Jewelry: Local artisans craft beautiful necklaces and bracelets from polished volcanic rock. The black stones are often paired with jade, Guatemala’s other national treasure.
• Walking Sticks: Many children sell hand-carved walking sticks at the trailhead. They are incredibly useful for the hike, and many visitors buy them as a keepsake (and to support the local families).

Monitoring and Safety

Pacaya is part of the Pacaya National Park.

• Guides are Mandatory: You cannot hike Pacaya alone. You must hire a certified local guide. This is partly for safety (to keep you away from unstable lava tubes and gas vents) and partly to support the local economy.
• Gas Hazards: The crater emits significant amounts of sulfur dioxide. On days with poor wind, the gas can pool in low areas, posing a suffocation risk. Guides are trained to recognize these conditions.

Conclusion

Pacaya is the gateway drug of volcano tourism. It is approachable, photogenic, and offers an intimate interaction with geological forces. Whether you are eating a volcanic pizza or watching the McKenney cone glowing red in the twilight, Pacaya offers a connection to the living Earth that is hard to find anywhere else.