Pico de Orizaba: The Star Mountain of Mexico

Pico de Orizaba, known in the indigenous Nahuatl language as Citlaltépetl (Star Mountain), is the undisputed monarch of the Mexican landscape. Soaring to a staggering 5,636 meters (18,491 feet), it is the highest mountain in Mexico and the third highest peak in North America, surpassed only by Denali in Alaska and Mount Logan in Canada.

This colossal stratovolcano is not just a mountain; it is a world unto itself. It stands on the border between the states of Veracruz and Puebla, acting as a massive climatic barrier that separates the humid, tropical Gulf Coast from the dry, high-altitude plateau of central Mexico. On a clear day, its snow-capped cone is visible from the Gulf of Mexico, 110 kilometers away, where for centuries it served as a navigational beacon for sailors arriving from Europe. It is dormant, but certainly not dead, sleeping under a blanket of glacial ice that is rapidly disappearing in a warming world.

The Legend of Citlaltépetl

For the ancient civilizations of Mesoamerica—the Olmecs, Totonacs, and Aztecs—the mountain was sacred. The name Citlaltépetl comes from the Nahuatl words citlalli (star) and tepetl (mountain).

The Story of Quetzalcoatl

One legend links the mountain to the god Quetzalcoatl (the Feathered Serpent). It is said that after Quetzalcoatl departed from the Toltec capital of Tula, he traveled east towards the sea. Before vanishing, he ascended the great volcano and immolated himself. His ashes rose to the heavens to become the birds of beautiful plumage, while his heart ascended to become the Morning Star (Venus). Thus, the mountain became the “Star Mountain,” the earthly launchpad for a god.

The Guardian Spirit

Another local legend tells of a brave warrior named Orizaba and a beautiful maiden. They fell in love, but war separated them. Orizaba was killed in battle. Heartbroken, the maiden climbed to the highest peak, laid down, and died of grief. The gods, moved by her sorrow, covered her body with eternal snows, transforming her into the volcano. When she remembers her lost love, she trembles (earthquakes) and sighs (fumaroles). The mountain is thus seen as a sleeping woman, a guardian spirit watching over the valleys below.

Geology: A Layer Cake of Fire

Pico de Orizaba is the easternmost peak of the Trans-Mexican Volcanic Belt, a geological marvel that spans central Mexico from the Pacific to the Gulf.

• Structure: It is a classic composite volcano (stratovolcano), built over millions of years by alternating layers of lava flows, ash, and pyroclastic debris. The current cone is actually the third volcano to stand on this spot. The first (Torrecillas) collapsed, and the second (Espolón de Oro) was built on its ruins before also partially collapsing. The modern Citlaltépetl cone has grown inside the remains of these ancestors.
• The Crater: The summit is crowned by an elliptical crater measuring roughly 400 by 500 meters (1,300 by 1,600 feet) and about 300 meters deep. It is steep-walled and ominous, revealing distinct layers of red and black volcanic rock.
• Eruptive History: The volcano has been dormant since 1846, but its history is violent. Major eruptions occurred in 1545, 1566, 1630, and 1687. Geologists classify it as active because 150 years is a blink of an eye in geological time. Future eruptions could be catastrophic given the dense population in surrounding cities like Orizaba, Córdoba, and Puebla.

The Glaciers: A Vanishing Crown

Pico de Orizaba is one of only three mountains in Mexico that still supports glaciers (the others being Iztaccíhuatl and Popocatépetl).

• Gran Glaciar Norte: The main ice body is the Gran Glaciar Norte (Great Northern Glacier). It is the largest glacier in Mexico, extending from the summit down to about 5,000 meters.
• Climate Change: The glaciers are retreating at an alarming rate. Since 1950, Orizaba has lost more than 50% of its ice cover. Scientists predict that within the next few decades, the glaciers may disappear entirely. This is not just a loss of beauty; the glaciers act as a water tower, feeding the rivers that supply water to millions of people in the state of Veracruz.
• The Jamapa Glacier: This tongue of the Gran Glaciar Norte is the primary route for climbers. Its crevasses are deep and shifting, presenting a real danger to mountaineers. The melting ice often exposes relics from the past, including the mummified remains of climbers lost decades ago, preserved by the deep freeze.

Mountaineering: Climbing the Roof of Mexico

For mountaineers, Pico de Orizaba is a coveted prize. It is often the first “high altitude” peak (over 5,000 meters) attempted by climbers preparing for the Himalayas or the Andes.

• The Season: The best time to climb is the dry season, from October to March. During the summer, the mountain is often shrouded in clouds and battered by storms.
• The Route: The standard route is the Jamapa Glacier route on the north face. Climbers typically start from the Piedra Grande Hut at 4,260 meters (13,976 feet).
  1. The Approach: The climb begins in the dark, often around 1:00 AM, navigating through a rocky labyrinth called “The Labyrinth” where it is notoriously easy to get lost.
  2. The Glacier: At around 5,000 meters, climbers strap on crampons and rope up for the glacier. The slope is sustained and steep, reaching angles of 35 to 40 degrees. It is a long, grueling slog on hard ice.
  3. The Summit: Reaching the crater rim at sunrise is a spiritual experience. The shadow of the mountain stretches for hundreds of miles to the west, a perfect pyramid of darkness cast upon the morning haze. Inside the crater, the walls drop steeply into a kaleidoscope of oxidized rock—reds, yellows, and blacks that contrast violently with the blinding white of the rim. It is a place of absolute silence, save for the wind. The view encompasses the other great volcanoes of Mexico: Popocatépetl, Iztaccíhuatl, and La Malinche to the west, and the shimmering Gulf of Mexico to the east.
• The South Face: For those seeking a different challenge, the south face offers a non-glaciated route. It is a grueling slog up loose scree (sand and small rocks) that slides back one step for every two taken. It is technically easier but physically demoralizing. However, it is the only option when the northern glacier is too icy or dangerous.
• Safety Records: While accessible, Orizaba is deadly. Every year, climbers are lost to falls on the hard ice or disorientation in whiteout conditions. The mountain demands respect. The “Sarcophagus” is a famous rock formation near the glacier where rescue missions often stage operations.
• Challenges: The greatest danger is not technical difficulty but altitude sickness. At 5,636 meters, the air contains only half the oxygen found at sea level. Climbers must acclimatize properly or risk pulmonary or cerebral edema.
• The Seven Volcanoes: Orizaba is part of the “Volcanic Seven Summits” challenge—climbing the highest volcano on each continent. It represents the North American continent in this prestigious list.

Biodiversity: From Tropics to Tundra

Climbing Orizaba is like traveling from the equator to the poles in a single day.

• The Base: The lower slopes (up to 2,500m) are covered in lush cloud forests and pine-oak woodlands, rich in biodiversity including bromeliads, orchids, and diverse bird species.
• The Middle: As you ascend, the forest transitions to hardy Oyamel firs and Hartweg’s pines—the trees famously used by Monarch butterflies for winter hibernation (though the main sanctuaries are further west).
• The Alpine Zone: Above 4,000 meters, the trees disappear. The landscape becomes a zacatonal—high-altitude grassland dominated by tough tussock grasses. It is a stark, golden landscape swept by wind.
• The High Desert: Above the grass line is the Alpine desert—loose volcanic scree, rock, and dust where almost nothing grows. This lifeless zone extends to the edge of the permanent snow.

The Large Millimeter Telescope

Pico de Orizaba’s neighbor, Sierra Negra (an extinct volcano 4,580m high), is home to one of the world’s premier scientific instruments: the Large Millimeter Telescope (LMT).

• The Eye: It is the largest single-dish steerable telescope in its frequency range in the world.
• The Science: The LMT observes the formation of stars and galaxies from the early universe. Its location was chosen because the high altitude and dry air minimize atmospheric interference, allowing it to “see” radio waves that would be absorbed by moisture at lower elevations. It stands as a modern “Star Mountain” next to the ancient one.

Conclusion

Pico de Orizaba is a mountain of contrasts. It is fire capped by ice. It is a sacred ancient deity and a modern mountaineering challenge. It is a giver of life through its glacial meltwater and a potential destroyer through its dormant power. Standing on its summit, gasping for thin air, one feels not like a conqueror, but like a guest in a realm that belongs to the sky. As the glaciers fade, the mountain reminds us of the fragility of even the most imposing giants on our planet.