Mount Ijen: Beauty and Hellfire

Mount Ijen (Kawah Ijen) offers one of the most alien landscapes on Earth. Located on the eastern tip of Java, Indonesia, this active volcano is famous for two deadly but beautiful phenomena: the world’s largest highly acidic crater lake and the mesmerizing electric-blue fire that ignites at night.

It is a place of stark contrasts. For tourists, it is an Instagram dream and a bucket-list adventure. For the local men who work there, it is a “Devil’s Gold Mine,” where they risk their health daily to extract heavy chunks of pure yellow sulfur from the heart of the volcano.

The Blue Fire Phenomenon

The most famous attraction of Ijen is the “Blue Fire.”

• It’s NOT Blue Lava: A common misconception is that Ijen spews blue lava. It does not. The lava is red/orange like any other volcano.
• What it is: The blue glow comes from the combustion of extremely concentrated sulfuric gases. These gases emerge from cracks in the volcano at high pressure and temperatures up to 600°C (1,112°F). As soon as they hit the oxygen-rich air, they ignite. The flames are actually blue, rising up to 5 meters high.
• Liquid Sulfur: Some of the gas condenses into liquid sulfur, which continues to burn as it flows down the slopes, looking like “electric blue lava.”
• Viewing: This phenomenon is only visible in varying degrees of darkness. This is why the trek to Ijen starts at 1:00 AM. As soon as the sun rises, the flames disappear (or rather, become invisible), and the sulfur looks bright yellow.

The World’s Most Acidic Lake

At the center of the crater lies a one-kilometer-wide lake of turquoise-green water. It looks inviting, tropical even. But dipping a hand in it would result in chemical burns.

• The pH Level: The lake has a pH of less than 0.5. This is similar to the acidity of car battery acid. It is the largest highly acidic lake in the world.
• The Chemistry: The acidity is caused by the influx of hydrochloric and sulfuric acid gas from the underwater vents. The lake acts as a massive condenser for the volcano’s magmatic volatiles.
• The River: The Banyupahit river, which originates from the lake, is also highly acidic. In the past, its water caused dental erosion in villagers living downstream, though remediation efforts have helped in recent years.

The Sulfur Miners: The Strongest Men in Java

The heart of the Ijen story is human. Every night, around 200 miners hike up the mountain and descend into the smoking crater to harvest sulfur.

The Process

1. Channelling: The miners install ceramic pipes over the active vents. The hot gas travels through the pipes, cools down, and drips out as molten red liquid sulfur.
2. Cooling: As it cools further, it turns bright yellow and hardens into rock.
3. Breaking: The miners use metal bars to break the hardened sulfur into manageable chunks.
4. Carrying: This is the impossible part. The miners load the chunks into two baskets connected by a bamboo slat. They balance this slat on one shoulder.
   • The Weight: An average load is 70kg to 90kg (150-200 lbs). Some miners carry over 100kg.
   • The Climb: They must climb up 300 meters out of the steep, rocky crater, breathing in toxic fumes, and then walk 3 kilometers down the mountain to the weighing station.
5. The Pay: They do this twice a day. They are paid by the kilogram. On a good day, they earn about $10-$15 USD. It is considered a “good job” locally compared to farming, but the cost is their health.

Health Impacts

Most older miners suffer from respiratory issues, back deformities, and tooth decay (the acid in the air eats away at teeth enamel). Yet, they are incredibly welcoming. They often greet tourists with smiles, posing for photos and selling small sulfur carvings as souvenirs.

Trekking Ijen

The hike to Kawah Ijen is shorter than Rinjani or Semeru, but it is steep.

• The Start: The trek begins at the Paltuding base camp (1,850m).
• The Ascent: It is a 3km hike to the crater rim (2,386m). The first 2km are a wide dirt road but are relentlessly steep.
• The Descent into the Crater: To see the blue fire, you must hike down into the crater. This path is narrow, rocky, and steep. You are sharing the path with miners carrying heavy loads coming up. Priority must always be given to the miners. Step aside and let them pass.
• Gas Masks: Wearing a gas mask is mandatory once you approach the crater rim. The wind can shift instantly, enveloping you in a cloud of sulfur dioxide gas that burns the eyes and throat and makes coughing uncontrollable.

Geology of the Ijen Complex

Kawah Ijen is just one part of a larger volcanic complex.

• The Caldera: The entire area is inside the ancient Ijen Caldera, which is 20km wide.
• Multiple Volcanoes: Inside this caldera are several volcanic cones, including Mount Merapi (not to be confused with the famous Merapi near Yogyakarta), Mount Raung, and Kawah Ijen.
• Coffee Plantations: The fertile volcanic soil on the outer slopes of the Ijen caldera supports vast coffee plantations. The Arabica coffee from this region is world-famous.

The Ethics of Disaster Tourism

Visiting Ijen raises complex ethical questions. You are essentially paying to watch men perform back-breaking, life-shortening labor for pennies.

• “Human Safari”? Some critics call it a “human safari.” Tourists in expensive Gore-Tex gear taking selfies next to miners coughing in rags can be a jarring sight.
• The Miners’ Perspective: However, most miners welcome tourists. Why? Because tourists buy souvenirs. A small sulfur turtle carving sells for 20,000 IDR ($1.50). This is pure profit and much easier money than carrying 90kg of rock.
• How to Help:
  • Buy the Souvenirs: Even if you throw it away later (sulfur smells!), buying a carving directly supports the miner.
  • Gift Cigarettes or Cookies: It is customary to offer cigarettes (kretek) or snacks to miners if you stop to talk or take a photo.
  • Give Way: Always, always step off the path to let a loaded miner pass. Breaking their momentum is rude and physically draining for them.

Nearby Attractions: The “Africa of Java”

Just an hour from Ijen lies Baluran National Park.

• Savanna Landscape: Known as “Little Africa” (Africa van Java), this park features vast golden savannas (Bekol Savanna) filled with water buffalo, deer, and peacocks. It is a stunning contrast to the toxic, rocky world of Ijen and makes for a perfect decompression day after the midnight hike.

Best Time to Visit

• Dry Season (April - October): The best time for clear skies and seeing the blue fire.
• Avoid Weekends: Ijen is extremely popular with domestic tourists. Weekends and public holidays can see thousands of people clogging the narrow crater path.
• Midnight Start: Start hiking at 1:00 AM or 2:00 AM to reach the crater floor while it is still pitch dark.

Getting There

The closest airport is Banyuwangi (BWX).

• From Bali: You can take a ferry from Gilimanuk (West Bali) to Ketapang (East Java). The crossing takes only 45 minutes. From Ketapang, it is a 1-hour drive to the base of Ijen.
• From Surabaya: You can take a train (approx. 6 hours) or drive (approx. 7 hours) to Banyuwangi. Accommodations are plentiful in Banyuwangi city, ranging from hostels to luxury resorts.

Photography Guide: Capturing the Blue Fire

Capturing the blue flames is notoriously difficult because it is pitch black, yet the flames are bright.

• No Flash: Flash will ruin the photo. It will illuminate the smoke and make the flames invisible.
• Tripod is Essential: You need a long exposure (2-5 seconds). You cannot handhold this.
• Settings:
  • ISO: High (1600-3200).
  • Aperture: Wide open (f/2.8 or lower).
  • Shutter: 2-5 seconds.
• Protect Your Gear: The acidic gas is corrosive. It can damage electronic circuits and coat your lens. Keep your camera in a bag when not shooting, and wipe your lens frequently with a cloth designated for this (it will smell like sulfur forever).

Technical Facts at a Glance

• Location: Banyuwangi/Bondowoso, East Java, Indonesia
• Coordinates: 8.058°S 114.242°E
• Elevation: 2,799 m (9,183 ft)
• Lake pH: < 0.5 (Ultra-acidic)
• Lake Volume: ~36 million m³
• Temperature of Gas: ~600°C
• Primary Resource: Sulfur
• Last Magmatic Eruption: 1817 (Phreatic eruptions are more common, e.g., 1999)

Conclusion

Mount Ijen is a place of terrible beauty. It challenges our definition of “nature.” It is toxic, dangerous, and inhospitable, yet visually stunning. It is a place where the Earth bleeds fire and acid, and where human endurance is tested to its limits. No photo can capture the stinging smell of the sulfur or the eerie silence of the blue flames dancing in the dark. It must be witnessed.