Mount Hallasan: The Galaxy Mountain

Mount Hallasan, standing proudly at 1,947 meters (6,388 feet), is the highest mountain in South Korea. It is a massive shield volcano that forms the bulk of Jeju Island, a province often described as the “Hawaii of Korea.” Its name, Halla, translates roughly to “pulling the Milky Way,” signifying that the mountain is high enough to touch the stars.

Unlike the steep, conical stratovolcanoes of the mainland or Japan, Hallasan has a gentle slope, characteristic of shield volcanoes formed by fluid basaltic lava flows. However, its summit is rugged and imposes a commanding presence over the island. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, a Biosphere Reserve, and a Global Geopark, recognized for its unique geological features and immense biodiversity.

Geological Origins: The Birth of Jeju

Hallasan is not just a mountain on an island; in many ways, it is the island. Jeju was formed by volcanic activity beginning around 2 million years ago.

• Volcanic Stages: The island was built in stages. First, a lava plateau was formed under the sea. Then, Hallasan rose from the center during subsequent eruptions. The final stage of volcanic activity created the Baengnokdam crater on the summit and scattered over 360 parasitic cones, known locally as oreum, across the island’s flanks.
• Baengnokdam: The crater lake at the summit is about 400 meters in diameter. Its name means “White Deer Lake,” derived from a legend that immortal spirits used to play there, riding on white deer.
• Lava Tubes: The volcano’s fluid lava created one of the world’s most extensive systems of lava tubes (caves), such as the Manjanggul Cave, which are major tourist attractions in their own right.

Mythology: The Grandmother Creator

To the people of Jeju, Hallasan is the physical embodiment of their creation myth.

Seolmundae Halmang

The legend speaks of Seolmundae Halmang, a giant grandmother goddess who was so large that she used Mount Hallasan as her pillow.

• Building the Island: It is said that she created Jeju Island by shoveling dirt from the sea floor. As she worked, lumps of soil fell from her skirt, forming the hundreds of oreum (hills) that dot the landscape. Finally, she piled up the remaining earth to create the towering peak of Hallasan.
• The Broken Peak: One version of the story says the mountain was originally too pointy, so she broke off the tip and threw it to the southwest, creating Sanbangsan Mountain and leaving the flat crater of Baengnokdam in its place.
• The Tragic Soup: A darker legend tells of her tragic end. During a severe famine, she decided to make a giant pot of soup to feed her 500 sons. The pot was so large she could row a boat in it. While stirring the boiling broth, she lost her balance and fell in. She drowned instantly.
• The Discovery: When her sons returned home, famished from hunting, they eagerly ate the delicious, fatty soup. However, the youngest son, coming last, stirred the bottom of the pot to find more meat and discovered his mother’s bones.
• The Transformation: Horrified and grief-stricken, the youngest son ran away to the western edge of the island, where he turned into the solitary rock Chagwido. The other 499 sons, realizing what they had done, cried tears of blood and turned to stone on the mountain slopes. These are the 500 Generals (Yeongsil Rocks), standing sentinel along the Yeongsil trail, shrouded in mist as if forever mourning.

The 18,000 Gods

Jeju is known as the “Island of 18,000 Gods,” and Hallasan is their Olympus. The mountain is believed to be inhabited by mountain spirits (sansin). In the past, rituals were performed at the summit to ask for rain or protection from storms. The Gwaneumsa Temple on the northern slope remains a significant center for Buddhist and shamanistic practices.

Hiking Hallasan: A Journey Through Seasons

Hiking to the summit of Hallasan is a rite of passage for Koreans and a must-do for visitors. The mountain is strictly protected; hiking is only allowed on designated trails, and entry times are strictly enforced to ensure climbers are down before dark.

The Summit Trails: A Step-by-Step Guide

Only two trails lead to the Baengnokdam summit crater.

1. Seongpanak Trail (9.6 km one way, 4.5 hours)

This is the most popular route due to its gentler grade, though it is the longest.

• Segment 1: The Entrance to Sokbat (Easy): The trail begins on a flat, wooden boardwalk surrounded by a dense forest of oak and pine. It’s a gentle warm-up.
• Segment 2: Sokbat to Saraoreum Shelter (Medium): The path steepens slightly. Here, you can take a detour to Saraoreum, a parasitic cone with its own crater lake that offers a stunning reflection of the sky.
• Segment 3: The Jindallaebat Shelter (Hard): This is the checkpoint. You must reach this shelter by 12:00 PM (winter) or 12:30 PM (summer), or the rangers will turn you back. This is the last place to buy water or instant noodles (if available) and use a proper restroom.
• Segment 4: The Final Push (Expert): The last 1.5 km is the hardest. The trees disappear, replaced by alpine shrubs. You climb a relentless series of wooden stairs. The air gets thinner, but the view opens up to reveal the entire island.

2. Gwaneumsa Trail (8.7 km one way, 5 hours)

Determined hikers often argue this is the true Hallasan experience.

• The Scenery: Unlike the “green tunnel” of Seongpanak, Gwaneumsa offers dramatic views of the Tamna Valley.
• The Bridge: You cross the Guringul ravine on a suspension bridge that offers vertigo-inducing views of the volcanic rock below.
• Samgakbong Shelter: Named after the “Triangle Peak” that looms over it, this shelter is the main resting point. From here, the trail becomes very steep.
• The Reward: The final ascent offers the best view of the north face of the mountain and the rock formations that look like a crown of thorns.

The Shorter Trails (Non-Summit)

For those who cannot commit to a full day (8-10 hours) of hiking, there are beautiful shorter options:

• Yeongsil Trail: Often considered the most beautiful trail, it takes you to the Witse Oreum shelter (1,700m) but not the summit. It passes the famous “500 Generals” rocks and fields of wild azaleas.
• Eorimok Trail: Another trail to Witse Oreum, known for its winter snowscapes and panoramic views of the island’s northern coast.

Seasonal Beauty

• Spring: The slopes are blazing with the pink and purple of royal azaleas (Rhododendron weyrichii). The contrast between the dark volcanic rock and the vibrant flowers is stunning.
• Winter: Hallasan is one of the few places in Korea that reliable heavy snow. The “snow flowers” (hoarfrost on branches) draw photographers from all over Asia. The mountain becomes a white wonderland, requiring crampons for any hike.

Biodiversity: A Vertical Ecosystem

Because of its height and location, Hallasan acts as a vertical botanical garden. As you climb, you pass through distinct distinct climatic zones, effectively travelling from the subtropics to the subarctic in a few hours.

The Zones

1. Subtropical Zone (Sea level to 600m): Broad-leaved evergreen forests, though much has been converted to farmland or mandarin orange orchards.
2. Temperate Zone (600m to 1,400m): Deciduous forests with oaks, maples, and hornbeams. This is where the famous Jeju Horses were traditionally pastured.
3. Frigid Zone (1,400m to Summit): This is the most unique area. It is home to the Korean Fir (Abies koreana), a rare conifer that only grows on high mountains in Korea. Sadly, these forests are shrinking due to climate change. The summit area is an alpine meadow, home to diverse wildflowers and rare species like the Jeju weasel.

The Mystery of the White Deer

The crater lake, Baengnokdam, is the jewel of the mountain. However, visitors should manage their expectations: the “lake” is often dry. It relies entirely on rainfall.

• The Dry Crater: During dry seasons, visitors might see a muddy bottom or just a small pool.
• The Full Lake: After heavy summer rains or typhoons, the crater fills with water, reflecting the sky and the rocky rim. This is the lucky view that hikers pray for.
• The Roe Deer: While the legendary white deer are mythical, real Siberian Roe Deer are common on the mountain. They are often seen grazing near the trails, relatively unafraid of humans due to decades of protection.

Conclusion

Mount Hallasan is the gentle giant of Korea. It is not an angry, smoking cone like the volcanoes of the Ring of Fire; it is a nurturing mother, a provider of water, and a creator of land. From the jagged rock formations of the 500 Generals to the silent, wind-swept crater lake, a journey up Hallasan is a journey into the heart of Jeju’s identity—a place where geology and mythology are fused into stone.