Galeras: The Sleeping Lion of the Andes - Colombia's Most Dangerous Neighbor

Galeras (historically known as Urcunina) is not just a volcano; it is a towering presence that defines the daily life of nearly half a million people. Located in the Nariño Department of southern Colombia, its summit rises 4,276 meters (14,029 ft) above sea level. While it is majestic, it is also terrifyingly close to civilization. The city of Pasto lies just 9 kilometers from the active crater, effectively at the foot of the giant.

This proximity has earned Galeras the designation of a Decade Volcano by the United Nations, a title reserved for 16 volcanoes worldwide that pose the greatest risk to human populations. It is a geological neighbor that demands constant vigilance, respect, and fear.

Geological Context: The Complex of Fire

Galeras is not a simple, single cone. It is a complex stratovolcano with a history spanning over a million years.

• The Amphitheater: The modern active cone sits inside a massive, breach-shaped caldera (amphitheater) that opens to the west. This caldera was formed by a catastrophic collapse of the volcanic edifice approximately 40,000 years ago.
• The Active Cone: Inside this ancient scar rises the current active cone, which is slightly lower than the caldera rim. This inner cone is the source of all modern activity, constantly emitting gas, ash, and occasional pyroclastic flows.
• Tectonic Setting: Colombia sits at the intersection of three tectonic plates. Galeras is fueled by the subduction of the Nazca Plate beneath the South American Plate, the same engine that powers the entire Andean Volcanic Belt.

A History of Violence

Galeras has been erupting frequently for thousands of years. The indigenous Quillacinga people, who inhabited the region before the Spanish conquest, called it Urcunina, meaning “Mountain of Fire.”

• Historic Activity: Since the Spanish arrival in the 16th century, over 20 major eruptions have been recorded. These eruptions often involve explosive ejections of ash and rock, affecting the surrounding agriculture and towns.
• The 19th and 20th Centuries: The volcano remained consistently active, but it was the reawakening in 1988 after a 40-year dormancy that alarmed modern scientists.

The 1993 Tragedy

The most infamous event in Galeras’ recent history occurred on January 14, 1993. It was not the largest eruption geologically, but it was one of the most tragic for the scientific community.

• The Conference: Pasto was hosting an international volcanology conference (IAVCEI). As part of the event, a team of world-renowned scientists, led by Stanley Williams, hiked into the active crater to sample gases and measure gravity changes. The volcano was showing low seismic activity, and it was deemed safe.
• The Eruption: Without warning, Galeras exploded. It was a small phreatic eruption, but for those inside the crater, it was catastrophic. Superheated rocks and gas rained down on the researchers.
• The Aftermath: Six scientists and three tourists were killed. Several others, including Williams, were severely injured. The tragedy sparked a global debate on safety protocols for field volcanology and the ethics of risking lives for data. It highlighted the unpredictable “chimeric” nature of volcanoes like Galeras.

Life in the Hazard Zone: The City of Pasto

The relationship between the volcano and the city of Pasto is complex and fraught with tension.

• The Threat: The primary danger to Pasto is not necessarily lava flows, but pyroclastic flows (avalanches of hot gas and rock) and lahars (mudflows). Because the caldera opens to the west (away from the city), the city has some natural protection, but large eruption columns can collapse and spill over the crater rim towards the urban center.
• The “Mapa de Amenaza”: In 2005, the Colombian government updated the hazard map, declaring large parts of the city and surrounding rural areas as “High Risk Zones.” They ordered mandatory evacuations for thousands of people.
• Social Resistance: The evacuation orders were met with fierce resistance. Many locals, who have lived with the volcano for generations, refused to leave their land and livelihoods. They view the volcano not just as a threat, but as a provider of fertile soil and a cultural identifier. This conflict between scientific safety mandates and social reality continues to be a major challenge for civil defense authorities.

The Science of Infrasound

Galeras is a “noisy” volcano, but not always to human ears.

• The Microphone Network: Scientists use a network of infrasound (low-frequency sound) arrays to listen to the volcano.
• The “Tornillos”: Before explosions, Galeras often produces a unique seismic signal called a “tornillo” (screw) because it looks like a screw thread on the seismogram. These signals are vibrations of fluids (gas/magma) in the cracks and are a key warning sign that pressure is critically high.

Gold and the Volcano

The geology of Nariño is not just volcanic; it is metallic.

• Pre-Columbian Gold: The indigenous Quillacinga were master goldsmiths. The volcanic heat drove hydrothermal fluids through the rock, depositing gold veins in the region.
• Mining: Today, artisanal mining still exists on the outskirts of the hazard zones, adding another layer of economic complexity to the evacuation debates.

The Coffee of the Clouds

The volcano’s slopes produce some of Colombia’s highest-altitude coffee.

• Flavor Profile: Grown at over 2,000 meters in volcanic ash soil, Galeras coffee is known for its high acidity and citrus notes.
• Risk: The 2010 eruption blanketed the coffee cherries in ash right before harvest. Farmers had to wash the trees by hand to save the crop, demonstrating the resilience of the agricultural community.

The Carnival of Blacks and Whites

Living next to death makes you celebrate life harder.

• The Festival: The Carnaval de Negros y Blancos in Pasto is a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage event held every January.
• The Connection: The carnival often coincides with the anniversary of the 1993 eruption. The “Day of the Whites” (Jan 6th) involves the city being covered in white talcum powder—a joyous, mimicry of the volcanic ash that they fear.

The Sanctuary of Flora and Fauna

Paradoxically, the slopes of this dangerous volcano are a haven for life. The Santuario de Fauna y Flora Galeras surrounds the volcanic complex.

• Ecosystems: The mountain hosts a variety of ecosystems, from dense Andean cloud forests at lower elevations to the windy páramo (high-altitude moorland) near the summit.
• Wildlife: The sanctuary is home to over 100 species of birds, including hummingbirds and eagles. It is also a refuge for the spectacled bear, deer, and the endemic Galeras toad. The frequent ash falls enrich the soil, creating a lush, green cloak that masks the fiery heart beneath.

Tourism and Access

Access to the summit of Galeras is strictly regulated and often prohibited depending on the activity level.

• Alert Levels: The Colombian Geological Service uses a color-coded alert system (Green, Yellow, Orange, Red). During Yellow or Orange alerts, access to the upper slopes is closed.
• The Ring Road: A popular way to experience the volcano without climbing it is the “Circunvalar al Galeras,” a road that circles the entire mountain. It passes through charming towns like Sandoná (famous for straw hats), Yacuanquer, and Genoy, offering spectacular views of the volcano from all angles.
• Hiking: When conditions permit, guided hikes can take visitors to the Telpis lagoon area or up to the caldera rim, but entering the crater itself is strictly forbidden.

Culinary Tradition: Cuy

A visit to Galeras is incomplete without the food.

• Cuy Asado: Roasted guinea pig is the regional delicacy of Nariño.
• The Ritual: It is traditionally eaten during festivals and family gatherings. The best cuy restaurants are found on the road to the volcano, where the animals are raised on grass grown in the volcanic soil.

The Endemic Toad: Atelopus complex

• The “Harlequin Toad”: The high-altitude streams of Galeras were once full of colorful harlequin toads.
• Extinction Threat: Like many amphibians in the Andes, they have been decimated by the chytrid fungus and climate change. The sanctuary is one of the last strongholds where scientists are trying to save these “jewels of the cloud forest.”

The Qhapaq Ñan

The ancient Inca road system passed through here.

• The Route: Remnants of the pre-Hispanic road network can still be found on the flanks of the volcano.
• Trade: It was a vital trade route connecting the Amazon to the Pacific coast, allowing the exchange of Coca leaves for sea salt. The volcano was a landmark guiding these ancient travelers.

Conclusion

Galeras is a reminder of the delicate balance between civilization and nature. It is a scientific laboratory, a source of life for the ecosystem, and a Sword of Damocles hanging over the city of Pasto. To understand Galeras is to understand the resilience of the Colombian people who live, farm, and build their lives in the shadow of the giant.

Quick Facts

• Location: Nariño Department, Colombia
• Coordinates: 1.22° N, 77.37° W
• Summit Elevation: 4,276 m (14,029 ft)
• Volcano Type: Complex Stratovolcano
• Last Major Eruption: 2010 (Minor ash emissions continue)
• Key Hazard: Pyroclastic flows affecting Pasto.
• Status: Active (frequently on Yellow/Orange alert).