Arenal Volcano: Costa Rica's Perfect Cone - History, Hiking & Hot Springs
Discover Arenal Volcano, Costa Rica's most iconic landmark. Explore its violent 1968 eruption, the recovery of the rainforest, the best hiking trails, and the world-famous hot springs of La Fortuna.
Arenal Volcano (Volcán Arenal) is the crown jewel of Costa Rica’s volcanic landscape. With its perfectly symmetrical, conical shape, it dominates the fertile lowlands of the San Carlos canton. Rising to 1,633 meters (5,358 feet), it is often cited by geologists as one of the most structurally perfect volcanoes in the world, rivaling Mount Fuji in Japan and Mount Mayon in the Philippines.
For decades, Arenal was Costa Rica’s most active volcano, offering a nightly light show of glowing lava rocks tumbling down its slopes. Since entering a resting phase in 2010, the pyrotechnics have stopped, but the volcano remains a majestic presence, anchoring a region renowned for its adventure tourism, biodiversity, and geothermal wonders.
Geological History: The Sleeping Giant Wakes
Arenal is geologically young, estimated to be less than 7,500 years old. It is a stratovolcano built by successive layers of lava, ash, and tephra. For centuries, locals knew it as “Cerro Arenal” (Arenal Hill), believing it to be extinct due to its heavy forest cover and lack of activity. The indigenous Maleku people, however, had oral traditions of fire and wrath associated with the mountain, suggesting prior knowledge of its power.
The Catastrophe of 1968
On the morning of July 29, 1968, the sleeping giant awoke with devastating fury.
- The Precursors: Days before the eruption, residents reported ground tremors and the water in local creeks turning warm and acidic. These warning signs were largely misunderstood.
- The Explosion: At 7:30 AM, a violent lateral explosion blasted out the western flank of the mountain. The force was equivalent to a nuclear bomb. It created three new craters (Craters A, B, and C).
- The Pyroclastic Flows: The explosion unleashed pyroclastic flows—avalanches of superheated gas, ash, and rock moving at hundreds of kilometers per hour. These flows completely obliterated the towns of Tabacón and Pueblo Nuevo.
- The Toll: Tragically, 87 people lost their lives. The eruption destroyed over 15 square kilometers of lush pasture and rainforest, covering the area in a thick blanket of tephra and giant blocks of rock. The famous “colossus” rocks found on the 1968 trail today are remnants of this violent ejection.
Decades of Fire (1968–2010)
Following the initial explosion, Arenal entered a 42-year period of continuous Strombolian activity.
- The Nightly Show: It became famous for its consistent, mild eruptions. Every night, glowing red blocks of lava would tumble down the slopes, shattering into sparks. This spectacle turned the sleepy agricultural town of La Fortuna into a global tourism hub.
- Lava Flows: Unlike the explosive 1968 event, the subsequent activity was effusive. Thick, blocky andesitic lava flows oozed from Crater C, slowly building up the cone and filling in the scars of the initial blast.
- The Silence: In October 2010, the volcano suddenly went quiet. The lava stopped flowing, and the explosions teased. While it is currently in a “resting phase” with only minor fumarolic activity, scientists at the OVSICORI (Volcanological and Seismological Observatory of Costa Rica) continually monitor it. The magma chamber is still hot, and “resting” does not mean “extinct.”
Tourism and Adventure in La Fortuna
The town of La Fortuna, located at the eastern foot of the volcano, is the adventure capital of Costa Rica. The region offers a unique blend of adrenaline and relaxation, all centered around the volcano.
Hiking the National Park
Arenal Volcano National Park protects the volcano and its surrounding flora and fauna. While climbing to the summit is strictly forbidden due to unstable slopes and lethal gases, there are spectacular trails at the base:
- Las Coladas Trail: This 2 km trail leads you onto the solidified lava flows from the 1992 eruption. Walking on the jagged black rocks offers panoramic views of the volcano and Lake Arenal.
- El Ceibo Trail: A flat, easy trail through secondary rainforest, famous for a massive, 400-year-old Ceiba tree. Its giant buttress roots are taller than a person, a reminder of the forest that existed before the volcano’s recent activity.
- The 1968 Trail: Located just outside the national park, this private reserve offers some of the closest views of the 1968 eruption site and the “lava blocks” ejected during the blast.
Mistico Hanging Bridges
To see the rainforest from a different perspective, the Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges park offers a series of suspension bridges strung through the canopy.
- The Experience: You walk at eye level with monkeys and birds. This is one of the best places to spot wildlife, including three species of primates (Howler, Spider, and White-faced Capuchin) and sloths.
- The View: The bridge crossing the gorge offers a perfectly framed view of the volcano rising above the jungle wall—one of the most photographed spots in Costa Rica.
La Fortuna Waterfall
Just a short drive from the volcano is the breathtaking La Fortuna Waterfall (Catarata Río Fortuna).
- The Descent: A steep descent of 500 steps takes you from the viewing platform down to the river canyon.
- The Plunge: The waterfall plunges 70 meters (230 ft) from a cliff of columnar basalt into a crystal-clear blue pool. It is safe to swim in the refreshing (cold!) water, a perfect counterbalance to the hot springs.
Adventure Beyond the Volcano
While the volcano is the centerpiece, the rugged terrain it created has made La Fortuna a world-class destination for high-octane sports.
- Ziplining (Canopy Tours): Flying through the rainforest canopy on a steel cable is a quintessential Costa Rican experience. The ziplines here are among the highest and fastest in the country, often offering glimpses of the volcano between the trees. Some tours even include a “Tarzan Swing” for the brave.
- Canyoneering (Rappelling): The volcanic slopes channel heavy rainfall into narrow canyons. Canyoneering tours involve hiking up into the rainforest and then rappelling down a series of waterfalls (some up to 200 feet high) inside the “Lost Canyon.” It is a wet, wild, and incredibly fun way to experience the hydrology of the volcano.
- White Water Rafting: The Balsa and Sarapiquí rivers, fed by the volcanic watershed, offer Class II-IV rapids. Paddling through the rainforest gorge, you are likely to see iguanas sunning themselves on the rocks and blue morpho butterflies fluttering over the foam.
Geothermal Wonders: The Hot Springs
Arenal is not just about fire; it is about water. The magma chamber deep underground heats the groundwater, creating a massive geothermal system.
The Science of the Springs
Rainwater falls on the porous slopes of the volcano, filters down until it nears the magma, gets heated, and is forced back up to the surface mineral-rich and hot. The water is rich in silica, calcium, and magnesium, believed to have therapeutic properties for skin and muscles.
The Experiences
- Luxury Resorts: Places like Tabacón Thermal Resort and The Springs have turned this into an art form. They feature intricate networks of cascading pools, waterfalls, and swim-up bars set in manicured tropical gardens.
- Rio Chollin (Free Hot Springs): For a more local experience, head to the bridge near Tabacón. Here, you can access the river for free. At night, locals soak in the steaming river by candlelight, surrounded by the sounds of the jungle. It is a raw, communal experience.
Wildlife and Biodiversity: The Transition Zone
The ecosystem around Arenal is unique because it sits in a transition zone between the humid rainforests of the Caribbean slope and the drier forests of the Pacific slope.
Flora
- Orchids and Bromeliads: The trees are draped in epiphytes. The moisture from the Caribbean winds keeps the forest lush year-round.
- Heliconias: The bright red and yellow “lobster claw” flowers are everywhere, attracting hummingbirds.
Fauna
- Birds: With over 850 bird species in Costa Rica, Arenal is a prime spot. Birdwatchers look for the Great Curassow, Keel-billed Toucan, and the Motmot with its distinctive pendulum tail.
- Mammals: Besides monkeys and sloths, the park is home to Coatimundis (pizotes), raccoon-like animals often seen begging for food on the roads (please do not feed them!), and the elusive Jaguar, which roams the higher, restricted slopes.
- Reptiles: The venomous Eyelash Viper is often spotted by guides on night walks, hanging motionless from palm leaves.
Conclusion
Arenal Volcano is more than just a mountain; it is the heart of a vibrant ecosystem and a testament to the Earth’s regenerative power. The forests that were once destroyed by ash and lava have regrown, greener and more diverse than before. Whether you are hiking the lava fields, soaring on a zipline, or relaxing in a thermal pool with a cocktail in hand, the perfect cone of Arenal stands as a silent, majestic guardian over it all. It reminds us that nature is both destructive and creative, and that beauty often rises from the ashes.
Quick Facts
- Location: Alajuela Province, Costa Rica
- Coordinates: 10.463° N, 84.703° W
- Summit Elevation: 1,633 m (5,358 ft)
- Crater Diameter: 140 m (460 ft)
- Volcano Type: Stratovolcano
- Status: Active (currently in a resting phase since 2010).
- Nearest Town: La Fortuna (6 km).